Whenever I decide to slow it down, do some indulgence sewing, analyse my wardrobe to see what´s missing, something I just can´t look away comes up. I recall back to August when I started testing again for Kaysie from KZJO Studio and it´s not finished yet because she´s getting ready to launch more patterns.

There´s a small core group of testers there and I think we pushed ourselves to the max this time: we tried Kaysie´s patterns to the limit and went above and beyond to make them the best we could. Not that they weren´t great to start with; some were a hit at round one, others took a little more work to perfect the fit. That´s just how it is. It has been an enormous privilege to work with her and the learning never ends: from sleeve to neckline adjustments, I think we covered it all. So, without further ado, I´ll present:

Cosette is a true labour of love shirt, but that neckline is just perfect, with a facing and the understitching it deserves, set in sleeves with the company of a gazillion pins obviously, and the bias cut panels on the side that are cleverly thought to a) be a cool design feature and b) adjust to your body. In the end, hemming is just so dull you´ll skip it like I did here. I´ll get to it one day.

 

The Evangeline is a midi lenght dress with a faux wrap around look. The front panels are overlapped and the fit is just close and tight enough to make it comfortable to wear. The bell sleeves are the extra detail.

The Rosaline was the pattern of the month for September, (which I failed miserably to present in time, sorry again Kaysie!) but it´s here now. I made the dress version with the scoop neckline and a 3/4 sleeve, but this is one of those multi options pattern that are wonderful to play with. I used a plain suiting knit, close to a thick Ponte, and added one of my vintage lace necklines that had the perfect cut for it.

What caught my eye for KZJO´s patterns, beside the designs I love, is that she drafts for a C cup (yes, that´s me, God made me skinny with boobs, go figure) so I can rely on using the smallest size without having to worry about bust adjustments.

Kaysie works at the speed of light and there´s some good things coming up! <3

Good things come in pairs and if it´s a pattern, even better. We all have that secret desire to play dress up with our daughters; maybe not with them but instead use them as living dolls, at least until they turn 2 and start pre adolescence, ha! Either way, when there´s a chance to make cute matching clothes for both, I know some just can´t resist.

The Valley Blouse for girls is just a mini version of the Valley for women, so you know it´s good: the same lined yoke, nice puffed sleeves with gathered cuffs, a pretty keyhole and a lovely neckline.

I used a very lightweight cotton voile with a Roxy print I found at my local shop, Feira dos Tecidos, almost a year ago, in fact it was the same day I met this pretty gal. I used snaps instead of buttons to make it easier for her to dress up. I always prefer really light cottons for this kind of clothing, but bare in mind that it does wrinkle a bit while being used by a toddler.

I do have an adult version sewn up with the same fabric but a joined photoshoot just wasn´t possible this time. If I do get some pictures meanwhile, I´ll update this post.

And it´s almost over gaaah run for your life: until October 26, 11:59 EDT (October 27, 1:59 AEDT) enter the coupon code VALLEYBLOUSE for 30% off your entire purchase.

This blog post contains affiliate links but all opinions are my own.

My kick off to enter this sewing blogging world was with a Cali Faye dress. Though I made a couple of posts before talking about it, it was ready in the backstage and the main reason that made me start the blog, so I could share with you all what I´ve done and hopefully inspire you.

I´ve grown fond of her designs, simply because I can picture myself in all of them, they´ve got the style and look I aim for. I´m pretty sure not all patterns suit all people, and here personal taste has a bigger influence than size. My hope, above all, is that you appreciate what you see here and inspire you to make something special for yourself: that RTW blouse you saw, that precious fabric you´ve been hoarding, that Pinterest image you saved for later.

The Valley Blouse was e.xac.tly what I was needing in my wardrobe: I`ve bought a lot of large boho style blouses in the past and was saving the rest of this fabric (which I first used in my Aberdeen vest) to make one. Match made in heaven with this pattern but fabric matching hell. The fabric is the most lightweight voile rayon challis, really close to gauze, which means it´s got that hyperactive factor: it runs away from scissors, pins, needles, so extra extra care was taken while cutting and sewing. I had to match the fabric´s pattern at the yokes, sleeves, center back, body, cuffs, every seam got match control to achieve the "no-way-you-did-that" look. Fabric like this might be hard to find, but Sweet Mercerie carry some like this light viscose or this voile that would be perfect for such a pattern, where flowiness is required.

This is the first testing version with no alterations. By now, Sarah has corrected it for a little less scoop and added a facing to the keyhole feature. The front yokes are lined, the sleeves are slightly puffed and the gathers just make it drape beautifully. Instructions guide you through all steps, but a steady hand is required: there´s a little of stitch in the ditch in the yoke and cuffs, or you can hand stitch if you´re awesome like that. Patience and love is necessary to distribute the gathers evenly and to set in the sleeves.

Love is in the details, like using the most precious vintage buttons you inherited from your grandmother.

I´m saving some talk for a next post where I´ll have another version matching my daughter. Yes, there´s a Valley for girls too. Grab your Valley until October 26, 11:59 EDT  (October 27, 1:59 AEDT), enter the coupon code VALLEYBLOUSE for 30% off your entire purchase.

This blog post contains affiliate links, but all opinions are my own.

O post de hoje vai ser diferente: estou a escrever em português! Nem sei se me lembro como, ha! Duas razões: tenho várias leitoras portugueses (obrigada!) e o tema do post começou com um grupo de 15 portuguesas malucas pela costura que se juntaram para celebrar o 15º aniversário da revista Ottobre Design. Grande grupo, deixem-me dizer-vos. <3 

» Today´s post will be a bit different: I´m writing in portuguese! I´m not sure I even remember how, ha! Two reasons for this: I have several portuguese readers (thank you!) and the post´s theme began with a group of 15 crazy portuguese sewists who joined to celebrate Ottobre Design´s magazin 15th anniversary. Amazing group, let me tell you.

Se são como eu, coleccionam todos os tipos de revistas de moldes que encontram, escolhem uma de vez em quando para procurar ideias ou para fazer qualquer coisa diferente, mas de algum modo nunca passa de uma vontade. Verdade seja dita: a maioria das revistas tem folhas de moldes confusas que desencorajam as mais destemidas. Mas esta ideia, minhas amigas, não passa de um mito (estão a gostar de me ouvir em português? hahaha!). 

» If you´re anything like me, you collect all kinds of pattern magazins you can find, pick one from time to time to search for ideas or something different to make, but somehow it ends up as just a wishmake on your head.

Let´s face it: most magazins have confusing pattern sheets that discourage even the most fearless. But that idea, my friends, is truly a myth (are you enjoying my portuguese voice? hahaha!). 

Fiquei muito contente (sim, "extasiada" não ficava aqui bem) quando comecei a encontrar revistas da Ottobre aqui em Portugal e são realmente diferentes das outras. Primeiro, os modelos: têm alguns moldes muito criativos com temas que estão na berra, mas também básicos muito bons para o dia a dia. Em segundo, a maneira como é fácil identificar um molde nas folhas, tanto pelos números como pelas linhas coloridas. Bem, talvez não seja fácil de VER por um olho destreinado (isto não soou bem, pois não?), mas definitivamente é fácil de usar: depois de encontrar as peças, traçá-las é um docinho. 
» I´ve been thrilled to find Ottobre magazins here in Portugal and they really are different from others. First of all, the designs: they have some very creative patterns with all that is trendy at the moment, but also very good basics for everyday wear. Secondly, the way the pattern sheets allow you to locate a pattern easily, either by numbers or by coloured lines. Well, maybe it´s not that easy to SEE for an untrained eye, but it´s definitely easy to use: once you find your pieces, tracing is candy.

Jardineiras e macacões estão este ano em todas as coleções de grandes marcas de roupa de criança e quando vi o Passerine, modelo 14 da Ottobre 3/2015, foi amor, ohhh amor! É um modelo de Verão mas imaginei-o logo no guarda roupa de Outono da minha miúda. Usei uma malha de algodão verde escura para uma versão de prova (não fotografada), só para ver o tamanho e algumas modificações que ia fazer. Para esta versão, usei uma malha interlock cinza, com um toque muito macio e com cerca de 30% de elasticidade. Não recomendo fazer este modelo com malha de menor elasticidade que esta, pois pode tornar-se difícil de vestir, a não ser que se abra mais o decote das costas. Ambas as malhas são da Feira dos Tecidos.
» Overalls and jumpsuits are in all major kids clothing brands this year and when I saw the Passerine, model 14 from Ottobre 3/2015, it was loooove, ohh sweet love! It´s a Summer model but I instantly visioned it for my girls Fall wardrobe. I used a dark green cotton knit for my wearable muslin version (not pictured), just to check for size and other mods I was making. For this version, I used a dark grey interlock, with a super soft touch and close to 30% stretch. I wouldn´t recommend making this model in something with less stretch than that, since it might become difficult to dress, unless you open more the back. Both knits were from my local shop, Feira dos Tecidos.

Fiz o tamanho 104, o que correspondia às medidas de cintura e peito e encurtei-o alguns cm para poder acrescentar as bandas no tornozelo. Aumentei as mangas para 3/4 e também acrescentei bandas. Para o decote, em vez da malha "ribbing", usei uma banda do mesmo tecido, cosi direito com direito, esticando a banda à medida que cosia. Esta técnica dá-me sempre os melhores acabamentos, sem ter de pespontar depois. Saltei a tira das costas porque os ombros aguentam-se bem sem deslizar, mas talvez seja necessário com uma malha mais leve. Agora, como é que isto se veste? Bem, o decote das costas está muito bem pensado, é largo o suficiente para puxar através dos ombros e pela cintura (daí a quantidade mínima de elasticidade necessária). Por causa da malha que usei ser mais grossa, não pus o elástico na cintura por achar que a costura ia acabar por ficar muito grossa e também por sentir que não precisava para a manter no sítio. 
» I did it in size 104, which corresponded to her waist and chest measurements and shortened it a few cm so I could add the ankle bands. I lenghtened the sleeves to 3/4 and also added bands. For the neckline, instead of the ribbing, I used a band of the same fabric, just sewn right sides together, stretching while sewing. I always get the cleanest finish with this technique, without having to topstitch. I skipped the back tab because the shoulders hold on well in place, I think it might be necessary if you´re working with a lighter knit. Now how on earth do you put it on? Well, that back curve is very well thought, it´s wide enough to pull through the shoulders and down the waist (that´s why you need that minimum stretch too). Because of the interlock I used, I also skipped the waist elastic because it would add just too much bulkiness in that seam and also I didn´t feel like it needed it to keep in place.

Usei uma cor simples e lisa, mas é uma peça tão forte que acho que não precisa de mais nada. Além disso, é óptimo para combinar com casacos coloridos, sapatos e acessórios. O tamanho é perfeito e não fiz alterações nenhumas ao molde além das referidas: serve-lhe na perfeição e ela tem-no usado sem parar. 
» It´s a plain and solid colour, but it´s such a statement piece that I don´t think it needs anything else. Plus, great for matching with more coloured coats, shoes and accessories. The fit is amazing and I made no alterations to the pattern other than what I said before: it fitted her wonderfully and she´s wearing it non stop.

Sobre a versão grande: sabem aquela peça perfeita que fazemos para os nossos filhos que nos dá vontade de ter 5 anos outra vez? Decidi fazer-me a vontade e não podia ter ficado mais satisfeita. Misturei o molde das calças Alexandria da Named com o molde da Union St. Tee da Hey June, sem grandes alterações a não ser arredondar os decotes e alguns ajustes ao meu corpo. Alterei o comprimento das mangas para 3/4, marquei a costura da cintura dois dedos abaixo do umbigo, cosi as duas partes e fiz as baínhas com agulha dupla. E volto a reforçar a importância de abrir bem as costuras, ao olhar para as últimas fotografias nota-se perfeitamente no meu onde me esqueci de o fazer, conseguem ver?
Tenho a certeza de que se tivesse mais revistas da Ottobre teria encontrado os moldes perfeitos para fazer o meu macacão! Mas vocês podem tê-las: um ano inteiro a receber revistas! 
» About the big version: you know that perfect make you sew up for your kids that make you wish you were 5 again? I decided to indulge myself and I couldn´t be happier. I´ve mixed the Alexandria by Named with the Union St. Tee by Hey June, with no great alterations other than rounding up the necklines and some tweaks for fitting. I altered the lenght of the sleeves to 3/4, marked my waist seam 2 fingers below belly button, sew the separates together and hemmed with double needle. And I must reinforce the importance of pressing those seams, by looking at the last pictures it clearly shows on mine where I forgot to do it, can you see?
I´m sure that if I had more Ottobre magazines, I would have found the perfect patterns to make my jumpsuit! But you can have them: a whole year receiving magazines!

Cá está o giveaway* incrível que acompanha esta tour! A Ottobre Design foi extremamente generosa - um grande obrigada!

Sete leitoras sortudas dos blogs de todas as participantes vão poder ganhar um dos seguintes:

- cinco subscrições anuais da revista Ottobre (edições de criança + senhora)

- um vale de 50 euros para a loja de tecidos da Ottobre no Etsy

- um vale de 30 euros para a loja de tecidos Maçãs d´Amor (onde se encontram marcas como nani IRO, Cotton and Steel, Dashwood Studio, Soft Cactus e muitas outras), oferecido por todas nós, bloggers portuguesas a participar nesta tour.

O giveaway terá lugar de 15 a 29 de Outubro. Para ganhar, têm de encontrar o pequeno emplastro que aparece numa foto acima! Haha, estava a brincar, entrem no Rafflecopter abaixo para concorrerem! 
» Here is the amazing giveaway* running along with this tour! Ottobre Design was outstandingly kind - a huge thank you for your generosity!

a Rafflecopter giveaway  

*Open internationally. You must have +18 years old to enter. Void were prohibited by law.

Não percam o resto da tour porque o talento destas meninas é irrepreensível e dá vontade de copiar tudo! E sim, aqui não se trabalha aos fins de semana, haha! 
» Don´t miss out on the rest of the tour because these ladies talent is irreprehensible and make you wanna copy everything! And yes, we don´t work at the weekends, haha!

Thursday, October 15 - DoGuincho

Friday, October 16 - Miss Castelinhos  |  Rita Pirolita

Monday, October 19 - In a Manner of Sewing  |  Conversas de Hermanas

Tuesday, October 20 - Fairies, Bubbles & Co.  |  Maças d'Amor

Wednesday, October 21 - Made by Sara  |  Saídos da Concha

Thursday, October 22 - Pico Pico  |  Pequeno Mundo a 3+1

Friday, October 23 - S is for Sewing  |  Sew Happy

Monday, October 26 - La Folie Sewing Booth  |  House of Estrela

Fall has arrived and I´m sewing full speed through a couple of testings and other necessary sews for my kids. The rithm has been phrenetic, though my blog doesn´t reflect it. Good, at least something is remaining peaceful and quiet in life, ha!

I don´t know exactly why, but I seem to be following a very minimalist trend for this A/W. I´m running away from a lot of vibrant fabrics and focusing more on matchable colours.

A few new pattern designers are coming around and it´s a good thing to see. They come with new ideas to refresh our eyes and make you want to hibernate and sew thru the cold days.

The new In the Folds (previously Em Makes Patterns) by Emily Hundt looks really promising: she has been sharing some very good tutorials on her blog and once I saw the testers call for this I couldn´t resist. It instantly reminded me of this released a while ago by Burda from the designer JC de Castelbajac.

This was my testers version, and though I really like the A line and baggy look, I would probably tweak it a bit for my next sew, just by removing 1 inch at the front. This is totally a personal preference since, as you know, I´m usually a size -2. I used a stretch suiting that was perfect for what I had envisioned: a simple, minimalist dress, but with some detailing that makes you look twice.

The sleeves are a gorgeously designed raglan that wraps around from the center panel to the back, all in one piece, with a shoulder dart. In the back there´s an invisible zipper, which I´m not showing because I should have interfaced that area since I was using stretch (it´s designed for wovens but it works with medium to heavy knits with low stretch as this), so I obviously got the wavy effect and I need to redo it. Neverthless, the tutorial and photo instructions guide you thru everything. It´s not a rush sew, it´s one where you truly enjoy and work every seam with love.

One of my favourite features about it is the oversized pockets that again, keep it really visually interesting. It´s a good pattern to play with colour blocking. For the hems I used my faithfull hem tape since I wasn´t going to ruin this beauty with my wonky topstitching. Even with a medium weight fabric like this, it holds up perfectly and it´s a good cheat if you run away from handstitching like me (if you wanna know, I already used it with a thick wool and it works like a charm, I use one from Millward).

The Rushcutter will be having a sew along starting Monday 19th, after what Em will be releasing additional pattern pieces for a slimmer version. It´s definitely worth a bookmark and another gorgeous dress to add to your endless sewing wishlist (ha, yes, I know you have one!) <3

And who´s all of us, you may ask? Your crazy portuguese sewing friends, of course! Who adore you and want to celebrate this day with you, even if only virtually.

Well, I can´t really point a time, but it was somewhere around two years ago while browsing through the internet. It caught my eye that she was portuguese and I randomly peeked her blog from time to time. I remember this project made me start visiting on a regular basis.

As I started sewing more seriously, we started interacting more through Facebook and Instagram and found out we are sewing soulmates, though I will never be able to hand sew like she does. She is a total sewing geek and we do love her for that. If we´ve got a technical doubt, she´s the one to go to!

As I´m particularly interested in women sewing, I love to see the projects she makes for herself. I love these culottes and this self drafted tunic. We share a love for all the drapey fabrics, from rayon challis to satin or silk, and I only wish we would live closer to talk about more sewing ideas and go fabric shopping together! The day we spent at Porto was awesome!

My gift to you, my friend, is this amazing portuguese double gauze and double faced! Haha, let me explain: Sara asked me if I could buy her a bit since it was sold out at her local shop and guess what I said? "Ooooh Sara, soooo sorry, it´s sold out here as well!" It´s actually not and they have it by the bolt, but I couldn´t resist the perfect opportunity to add this to her suprise.